Cast iron and steel.

September 4th, 2008

Here’s my latest bench vise before & after. At some point in its life someone took a can of horrid silver spray paint and really worked it over.  I repainted it with proper heavy duty enamel. The color, mixed by a local ma & pa hardware store, is industrial yet happy .

The vise was made in Erie Pennsylvania sometime after August 16, 1938.

Thats the date its patent, number 2,127,008 was issued.

The patent is for the pin that holds the main nut in position. The pin differs from those in other models of bench vises in that its tapped to accept a small screw. After being tapped it was slotted and the slot was sprung open just a bit so that when the screw is turned its under tension and wont come out of adjustment. When adjusted properly the screw is turned until it touches the main nut. The fit between the main nut and the body of the vise is prone to develop play over time and if it does you simply tighten the screw a bit.

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Why won’t my ratchet work ?

August 25th, 2008
There are all kinds of tools but I post quite a bit about socket wrench drive tools (ratchets etc). I wouldn’t have written about any for a while but the latest specimen from the flea market was in  such deplorable condition that I couldn’t help myself.

The crud buildup and rust was so thorough that WD-40 or Liquid Wrench would have been useless.

Before

Before

Instead I used a mixture of 2 parts motor oil and 1 part acetone. A wire wheel took care of some stubborn buildup on the drive plug assembly and I used a scriber to clean out the gear teeth.

After

After

Ready

Ready

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Frugality or foolish ?

August 8th, 2008

When you’re working on a car or anything mechanical that requires the use of socket wrenches, you don’t start off turning your nuts or bolts with a ratchet. That is

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, unless you like to ruin ratchets. I ruined three before I found out what a “breaker bar” is.

A breaker bar is what you use to get things started, then for speed you switch to a ratchet.

One of my breaker bars needed a new pin. It was at least 40 years old and had turned who knows how many nuts. Its previous owner had even used a hammer on it. I can tell because there are lots of identical, small, curved dents in the handle.

If the bolts were that tight, he should have used a striking wrench.

Anyway, the pin was so worn and bent that the drive plug jiggled in all directions, and the spring-loaded detent ball that is supposed to hold it in position barely touched it. It absolutely needed a new pin.

The pin was flared on either side to prevent it from working out, so I filed one end down and drove it partway out. Had I gone all the way, the drive plug would have come off and the tiny detent ball would have shot out into the dark recesses of my tool shed, never to be seen again.

I used inside calipers to gauge the diameter of the hole, then measured the calipers with a micrometer.  From my cache of salvaged hardware

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, I got an old bolt that had an unthreaded portion at least as long as the old pin, and was only .010 inches bigger in diameter.  I clamped it in my bench vise, and used strips of coarse emery paper to polish it down to fit. I wasn’t very precise about cutting it to length, just eyed it up. Then I drove it in, simultaneously forcing the old pin the rest of the way out.  Lastly, I peened the ends so it would stay put.

I didn’t have to do all that. Since the tool was Craftsman brand, I could have simply gone to Sears and taken advantage of the unconditional lifetime guarantee that Craftsman tools have. They would have exchanged it for a brand new one, and thrown the old one away. They do the same with ratchets that are returned. In the old days you could take a ratchet to them and they would rebuild it for you.

Here’s the bar ready for 40 more years.

Bottom pic is the original pin.

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